Clear Resin Instructions

5 Simple Steps

1

Prepare your workspace:

  • You will need: plastic work surface liner, gloves, a plastic measuring container, stir stick and spreader, torch, dust cover.
  • For best results, work in a 75F/24C - 85F/30C room. The resin and hardener should be standard room temperature or warmer.
  • If using tints, have small plastic mixing cups and stir sticks on hand, one for each color.
  • Prop your artwork on stands, tape off the sides or back (optional) and use a level to ensure the piece is perfectly horizontal.
2

Measure & Mix

  • With gloves on, measure equal parts Resin and Hardener (by volume) into a measuring cup.
  • Mix slowly for 5 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the container thoroughly.
  • To add colorants, divide the resin into individual cups add tint and mix well. Start with a small amount and add as needed, no more than 6% of the total resin and hardener in each cup.
3

Pour

  • Within 35 minutes of mixing, pour the resin over the surface of your artwork or into a mold.
  • Using a spreading tool, guide the resin evenly over the surface. Spread it only over the top of the piece only or allow it to run down the sides.
4

Remove bubbles

  • Run a flame torch once or twice over the resin surface to pop bubbles. Do not over torch.
  • If working with a silicone mold, use a heat gun instead.
5

Cover

  • Cover your work with an empty box to prevent airborne contaminants from landing in the wet resin. Wait 24 hours before handling and 72 hours before shipping.
  • Resin can be removed from molds at approx 18 hours. They may be bendy at first, but will harden up once fully cured. Place them on a flat surface to finish curing.

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Getting Better Results Every Time

Temperature really does matter more than most people realize. When your workspace is too cold, say below 70°F, epoxy resin gets thick and stubborn. It won't self-level properly, and bubbles become a real headache to remove. On the flip side, working in temperatures above 85°F can speed up your cure time, which sounds good until you realize you're rushing through your pour with less working time than expected.

If your bottles feel cold to the touch, try placing them in a warm water bath (not hot, just warm) for about 10-15 minutes before you start. This makes a noticeable difference. The resin flows more smoothly, mixes more easily, and releases bubbles faster when it's at a comfortable room temperature.

Quick temperature tips:

1. Store bottles at room temperature, away from cold garages or hot attics

2. Let cold resin warm up naturally rather than using direct heat

3. Check your room temperature before starting any project

4. Consider using a space heater in winter months to maintain consistent temps

Working With Different Surfaces

Clear epoxy works on so many materials, but surface prep changes depending on what you're coating. Wood needs a different approach than canvas, and glass requires its own considerations.

For wooden surfaces, light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper creates a better bond. You don't need to go crazy with it, just rough up the surface enough so the epoxy has something to grip. Wipe away dust with a slightly damp cloth, then let it dry completely before pouring. Some people seal porous wood with a thin coat first, which helps prevent air bubbles from coming up through the grain during the main pour.

Canvas presents its own quirks. If you pour mixture directly onto unsealed canvas, the fabric can absorb some resin and create dark spots. A light seal coat applied with a brush works well, just brush on a thin layer, let it soak in for about 20 minutes, then do your main pour. That initial coat fills the weave without adding much thickness.

Metal and glass surfaces need to be completely clean and free of oils. Isopropyl alcohol (91% or higher) works great for this. Just wipe down the surface, let it dry, and you're ready to work. These non-porous materials don't absorb resin, so you typically get good results without much prep beyond cleaning.

Mold Work and Resin Casting

Resin casting in molds opens up a whole world of possibilities, though it's a bit different from coating flat surfaces. Silicone molds are your best friend here, they're flexible, reusable, and resin doesn't stick to them permanently. You can find molds for everything from coasters to jewelry to decorative pieces.

Before you start any resin casting project, inspect your mold carefully. Even small tears or rough spots inside the molding chamber can show up in your finished piece. Most silicone molds don't need release agents since clear resins naturally release from silicone once cured, but if you're using plastic or other mold materials, you'll want to apply a release agent first.

Here's something people don't always think about: molds trap heat. When epoxy cures, it generates warmth (that exothermic reaction we mentioned). In a thick casting or a large mold, this can cause problems, sometimes the resin gets too hot and cracks, yellows, or stays soft in the center. For deeper pours beyond 1/4 inch, work in layers rather than one big pour.

Mold casting tips:

1. Fill molds on a level surface, use a bubble level to check

2. Tap or gently shake the mold after filling to bring bubbles to the surface

3. Avoid moving the mold once filled until the resin has started to gel

4. For intricate molds, try vibrating the mold gently on a vibrating table or even an old phone with the vibrate function on for a minute or two

The vibrating technique really helps with detailed molds. Those tiny details and corners can trap air bubbles that torching won't reach. Vibrating the filled mold before the resin starts to set encourages those hidden bubbles to work their way up and out.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Sticky or tacky resin after 24 hours

It usually comes down to measuring or mixing. If you didn't get exactly equal parts, or if you didn't scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing container thoroughly, you'll end up with soft spots. Temperature plays a role too. Cold workspaces slow the cure dramatically. Try warming the piece gently with a space heater (not a torch or heat gun directly on the surface) and give it more time.

Bubbles that won't go away

It can be frustrating. Sometimes bubbles come from mixing too vigorously, slow and steady wins this race. Other times, they're coming up from the substrate itself, especially with porous materials like wood or unsealed canvas.

The torch technique works for surface bubbles, but for bubbles rising from below, you might need that seal coat we talked about earlier. Heating resin slightly before mixing can also help reduce bubble formation.

Wavy or uneven surface

It typically means your piece wasn't level during cure, or you didn't pour enough resin to self-level. Epoxy wants to be flat, but it needs enough material to work with. For thin coats, you might need to spread it manually with a spatula rather than relying on self-leveling alone.

Cloudy or hazy results

Instead of crystal clear casting? This often points to moisture. Either the resin or hardener had moisture in it (check those caps are sealed tight between uses), or there was moisture on your surface before pouring.

Some people also see cloudiness from incompatible colorants, so stick to products designed for casting resins.

Fisheyeing or crater-like marks

On the cured surface usually come from contamination, oils, silicone, or other substances that epoxy resin won't bond to.

This is why surface prep matters. Clean everything thoroughly, and maybe avoid using silicone-based products near your resin workspace.

Advanced Techniques Worth Trying

Layering for depth effects

It works beautifully with clear casting resin. Pour a layer, let it cure until tacky (usually 4-6 hours depending on temperature), add your next element, maybe dried flowers, photos, or decorative paper, then pour another layer.

Each layer bonds chemically to the previous one if you time it right. Wait too long and you'll need to lightly sand between layers.

Color gradients and blending

They take some practice but create stunning results. Mix your clear resins with different colorants in separate cups, then pour them into your mold or onto your surface in the pattern you want. Use a stick or tool to gently swirl where the colors meet. The trick is working fast enough that the resin hasn't started to set, but not so fast that you create a bunch of bubbles

Inclusions and embeddings

They let you preserve just about anything in crystal clear resin. Dried flowers are popular, but people also embed shells, coins, photos, fabric, wood pieces, and more.

Just make sure whatever you're embedding is completely dry, moisture trapped inside will create cloudy spots or prevent proper curing. Some artists even embed LED lights for illuminated effects.

Creating cells and texture

With different mediums mixed into clear epoxy produces organic, unpredictable patterns. Alcohol inks dropped onto wet resin spread and create interesting effects.

Silicone oils added in small amounts can create cells similar to what you see in acrylic pouring. This gets experimental quickly, so maybe practice on small pieces first.

Making Your Projects Last

Sanding and polishing

They can fix minor imperfections or create different finish levels. If you've got a rough edge or a piece of dust that landed in your cure, wet sanding with increasingly fine grits (start around 400, work up to 3000) can smooth it out. Follow with plastic polishing compound for that glass-like finish. This is particularly useful for jewelry pieces or anywhere you need perfectly smooth edges.

Sealing the back or underside of coated pieces

It prevents moisture from getting underneath over time. A quick coat of clear resin on the back of a canvas or the bottom of a coaster set completes the piece and adds professional-level protection.

UV protection

It is built into Clear Resin, but if pieces will be in direct sunlight for hours every day, consider placing them where they get indirect light when possible. While our formula is UV resistant, nothing lasts forever under constant sun exposure. Indoor pieces should maintain their clarity indefinitely.

Cleaning and maintenance

For finished resin pieces is simple. Wipe with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners or rough sponges that might scratch the surface over time. For tabletops or heavily used items, consider placing felt pads underneath to prevent sliding and scratching.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use Clear Resin in a silicone mold without release spray?

Yes, clear epoxy releases naturally from silicone without needing release agents. The flexibility of silicone lets you pop out cured pieces easily once they're hard. Make sure your silicone mold is clean and dry before pouring.

If you're using plastic, resin, or metal molds, you'll definitely want a release agent, otherwise your piece might become a permanent part of the mold. Some people still use release spray even with silicone for extra insurance, but it's usually unnecessary and can sometimes cause surface imperfections.

Why does my resin look cloudy in the molding chamber but clears up later?

This happens sometimes with casting resins during the curing process, particularly in thicker pours. As the chemical reaction happens, the resin can temporarily look milky or hazy, especially in the first few hours. Usually, this cloudiness disappears as the cure completes, by 24 hours, it should be crystal clear.

If it stays cloudy after 72 hours, the issue is more likely moisture contamination or expired resin. Make sure your mold and any inclusions were completely dry before pouring.

Can I speed up the curing process with heat?

Heating resin to speed curing is possible but risky. While gentle warmth from a space heater in the room can help, direct heat from heat guns or placing pieces in ovens often causes more problems than it solves. Too much heat can yellow the epoxy, create bubbles, cause cracking, or result in an uneven cure.

Better to be patient and let the chemical reaction happen at its own pace. If you need faster results, consider working in a naturally warmer room (80-85°F) rather than applying external heat sources.

How do I know if my silicone mold is safe for resin casting?

Most silicone molds marketed for resin work perfectly fine. If you're unsure, do a small test pour in one section. The mold should be flexible but hold its shape, with smooth interior surfaces. Avoid food-grade silicone molds that are too soft, they can warp under the weight of liquid resin. The mold should withstand the slight heat generated during curing without deforming. Good quality molds last for dozens of pours, while cheap ones might only give you a few uses before they start showing wear.

What should I do if resin drips down the sides when I don't want it to?

Tape off the edges of your piece before pouring using painter's tape or masking tape. Press it down firmly so resin doesn't seep underneath. You can also prop your piece up slightly and place a drip catch underneath, wax paper or a silicone mat works well.

If you want resin on the sides but controlled, apply it with a brush or foam applicator rather than letting it run naturally. Some artists actually prefer the natural drip look and plan for it by hanging pieces over a protected surface.